This morning we got up at 4:00 Am for our flight to Lulka the gateway to the Everest region. We flew in a twin otter a fixed gear twin turbo prop. We carried our packs in our laps for the 40 minute flight. These planes are sturdy but utilitarian. Suffice it to say I could see daylight around the door. The strip at Lulka is built into a cliff and the approach and landing is quite spectacular – this from an aerobatic pilot who has been flying 28 years! Once there, we immediately had tea. Everything here happens with tea. Soon enough we were off for Phakding, our first nights stop. Most of this trail is downhill and takes several hours. We camped on the grounds of another teahouse next to the Dudi Kosh a beautiful rushing river that drains this region. To give you a feel for the expedition we actually have 16 climbers who will be attempting Everest. Accompanying us are at least four trekkers including my bride of 28 years who will only go as far as base camp and then home. Additionally there are a fair number of climbers who have come to climb Island Peak a two day classic not far from Everest who will then head home. Finally there is two guys who will climb through the ice fall on Everest before going home. Add to this dozens of porters, cooks and other staff and you have a massive group. My last climb was four friends so I was not sure how this would work. But when the Sherpa porters come by in the morning with hot “bed tea” served in your sleeping bag I think this might be okay after all. Tomorrow we head for Namche Bazaar the hub of the Khumbu.