March 21, 2006

The sign said “lane driving is safe driving”.

We had a one day layover in Delhi on the 20th so Terri, my wife, and I hired a driver to take us the 200 kilometers to see the Taj Mahal. It was pretty impressive but the drive there was the highlight. Only then did the sign make sense. First you must understand that there are very few lanes marked on the road and it doesn’t matter anyway. As our guide informed us “traffic rules are for fools”. There is an eclectic mix of vehicles on every inch of the road starting with bikes, motor scooters, motor cycles, three wheeled “Put Put’s” or “Tut Tut’s” or something, buses, large cargo trucks and sedans. The problem is everyone feels free to take as much of the road as they can and they all move at different rates of speed. The trucks all have a sign on the back that says “please blow horn”. It is because they don’t have rear view mirrors and the only way they know to yield the fast lane is if you beep at them. The signs painted on these trucks also say “use dipper at night”. We finally figured out that meant dimmer. Add to that mix the alternative fuel vehicles – horse drawn, person drawn, cow, drawn and even camel drawn carts and you can’t begin to understand the excitement. On top of that cows roam the roads freely and without fear. We were told you got in more trouble killing a cow which is sacred than a pedestrian. Our driver would hit speeds of 75 MPH then slam on brakes when someone didn’t get out of his horn blowing way fast enough. I can’t describe it but someone ought to make a video game out of it. Then when I thought I had seen everything I looked up and saw a car coming the wrong way down our lane – something they apparently do if it is too far to the next crossover. It amazes me that there is almost a billion of these people the way they drive. We eventually arrived back in Delhi no worse for the wear with that giddy feeling that comes from cheating death.

← Some ground rules…Kathmandu… →